John Lewis made his name cooking Central Texas barbecue down in Charleston. Now he's brought it up here to Greenville. Around the Upstate, most of us grew up on pork, so Lewis does things a little different. The star is the brisket. It's smoked slow and sold by the pound, and it's the first thing most people order. The menu goes way past brisket, though. There's a beef "hot gut" sausage with some real kick, another sausage packed with green chile and cheese, big glazed ribs, and turkey. The El Sancho Loco stacks brisket, pulled pork, and sausage on one bun. And don't skip the sides. The corn pudding, cowboy pinto beans, collards, and mac and cheese get almost as much love as the meat. A couple things you won't see coming: a beef rib on Tuesdays, and a house-cured pastrami that runs until it sells out. People always talk about the big portions and the easy, music-filled room. Every meat is gluten-free too. What a page like this can't show you is the story behind the pit, and why a Texas pitmaster decided to set up shop here in barbecue country. That part is his to tell.

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